I just got back yesterday from a trip down to my house in Todos Santos and my "ranchito" in Pescadero in Baja Sur. I did drive down to Cabo for a dive at Chileno reef.
Your website is consulted before each trip (3 a year for me, 1 for my brother) and has been very helpful. It also helps dispel some of the "rumors" out there. I have travelled in Mexico for the past 40 years and these "rumors" are usually baseless. Untrue stories told me just before leaving: you need a copy of your vehicle's pink slip, you can't get a tourist card past Tijuana, military searches are severe. Some changes are happening, however.
The trip was from middle of October to November 10, 1997. Road report from John & Peggy Rahkola is accurate. Some additional striping being done along with paving south of Santo Tomas.
Optical cable being laid along side the highway for the entire length of Baja. This is being buried and done by special machines and by hand. Pretty impressive. Soon a world-class phone service will result. It is necessary to be aware of this construction activity on rocky bends in the road where work is done with pick and shovel. Two sharp curves are being cut out north of La Paz. Big machines are cutting into the hillsides to straighten the road. Existing road still in use.
We had four military checks going down and seven going back up. All were polite and respectful. Some limited searches. They did want to see a tourist card, and some wanted a photo ID.
Ensenada immigration almost didn't give a friend his tourist card based only on a driver's license. They wanted birth certificate or voter's receipt ("with a stamp"). I use a passport and that works best. Do get tourist cards now!
Baja is really green. Lake Chapala is full of water (seen that other years too). Road is generally in the best condition I've seen in 10 years. Locals in Baja Sur say that plants are being seen that have not been seen in 60 years!! My little "ranchito" is a jungle. Lots of grass all over Baja. Hope that won't result in wildfires this summer. Two good rainfall years have made the land happy. Billions of butterflies are happy too.
Went to San Javier out of Loreto again. Francesca, who shows you around the church, would like more tourists and says the puebla could really use used clothing and toys for the kids. Her house is three down from the church.
We went down to Agua Verde. Gad! That road is the worst I've seen, ever. The hurricane washed out so much that there was just enough room for my tires to fit (Toyota 4X4). Straight 500 feet down the Sierra if we missed. The gov't and ranchers are working on it. Nice spot, good people.
Went partly down the road to LA Bay. Potholes were filled at least up to road to Tinaje de Yubay turnoff.
This was, by far, the easiest trip down ever. The road was good, people were friendly, helpful, and in good humor. A smile and a wave certainly go a long ways.